The beauty of waking at anchor is the quiet. The boat gently rocks as the day awakes and everything slowly comes to life. Sitting on deck in my PJs with a cup of tea while the others are still asleep is my morning yoga! Bliss. This has certainly been an adventure and a challenge for me, but this morning I am filled with a true sense of self at what I have achieved in skippering this 39ft boat in a foreign land with 4 unknown crew. We have had fun together, bonded along the way, forgiven each other our various foibles and survived! Sailing is such a perfect way to learn acceptance, patience and priorities. You share a confined space for 10 days as relative strangers and come out the other side the best of friends. The sense of camaraderie is more the fact that you have learned to live together in spite of certain short comings (and we all have them!) but overall we have shared the same love of sailing at whatever level we started at, and all benefited from the experience. It's a deeply satisfying feeling.
The short trip back to the marina at Kremik is slightly nostalgic. There are moments of silence as everyone begins to reflect on their journey. Luckily we find some wind from NE at about 10knots for just over an hour and I decide to treat the ladies to another mentoring session, gybing and tacking off Arkandel Island as we head north. Michelle loves the helm and the speed of upwind sailing and manages to get the boat up to 6.8 knots on a close reach. Carolina enjoys steady helming skills and practicing a sailing circle. Then I hand the helm to the guys sailing north on a broad reach as the winds have turned to SE.
As we near our destination, Nik offers to go below and prepare lunch - our very first cooked meal on board and we wait in the refreshed winds sailing outside Kremik on a broad reach for the next hour, passing the familiar isolated danger marker.
Gourmet omelet with crispy bacon and red wine is a welcomed feast as we dine like kings before lowering our sails for the final time and heading in to dock.
Tuesday 27 September 2011
25th Sept - Vinisce
Leisurely morning at anchor. Took dinghy ashore to swim in the bay, walk to hot shower at ACI marina on other side and enjoy cooked breakfast of ham and eggs and a cappuccino. Marina now deserted from the two days since we were here - end of season now. Weighed anchor at 11.50. Winds Westerly 4-10kn turning to NE. Motored out of anchorage at Vinogradisce heading for Vinisce just west of Trogir (agh I remember it well!) Distance about 25 miles so ETA 17.00'ish. ('ish became a much used phrase on this trip!) As we came across we passed jumping yellow fin tuna and dolphins!!
14.45 anchored in 4 metres of water just off from the town of Maslinica at northern tip of Brac island for a swim and lunch on deck.
Wind picked up in the afternoon and we managed to sail the last hour to Vinisce at a close reach at 5 knots across the Splitski Kanal (which we had crossed going south). Great end to the day. 17.30 dropped the hook in Vinisce, tiny town (400 inhabitants so even smaller than Gibsons!). Engine on dinghy to go ashore for dinner - two local boats came out to welome us all and invite us to eat at their restaurants. We chose the boat with the young boy and his dog and ate well (pizza, risotto, local fish eg. Scorpion fish very popular here as well as sea bass) bill came to $80 for 5 of us! Group then gathered at other restaurant so as not to leave him out - and drank baileys on ice and shared some sailing adventures from the trip. LOL. One boat has two French ladies on board so the sailing terminology naturally became slightly distorted - "harden the main" became "harden the man" which had us all in stitches. There was another joke referring to the foresail but I'll leave that to your imagination. And of course my boat, Foolish Pleasure, had all sorts of connotations!
Returned, feeling very merry, to our boat for night cap for tomorrow we leave.
14.45 anchored in 4 metres of water just off from the town of Maslinica at northern tip of Brac island for a swim and lunch on deck.
Wind picked up in the afternoon and we managed to sail the last hour to Vinisce at a close reach at 5 knots across the Splitski Kanal (which we had crossed going south). Great end to the day. 17.30 dropped the hook in Vinisce, tiny town (400 inhabitants so even smaller than Gibsons!). Engine on dinghy to go ashore for dinner - two local boats came out to welome us all and invite us to eat at their restaurants. We chose the boat with the young boy and his dog and ate well (pizza, risotto, local fish eg. Scorpion fish very popular here as well as sea bass) bill came to $80 for 5 of us! Group then gathered at other restaurant so as not to leave him out - and drank baileys on ice and shared some sailing adventures from the trip. LOL. One boat has two French ladies on board so the sailing terminology naturally became slightly distorted - "harden the main" became "harden the man" which had us all in stitches. There was another joke referring to the foresail but I'll leave that to your imagination. And of course my boat, Foolish Pleasure, had all sorts of connotations!
Returned, feeling very merry, to our boat for night cap for tomorrow we leave.
24th Sept - Blue Cave, Vis
The bells, the bells! Woke early and prepped dinghy to motor across to Vis town to meet other boats for day trip to Blue Cave on island of Bisevo, an hours boat ride from Komiza on western tip of Vis. Rented red fiat convertible and enjoyed a short 10 km drive across island from East to West up windy roads with sheer cliff sides offering spectacular vistas over the Adriatic. Boarded boat in Komiza at 10am to Bisevo, arriving on this tiny outcrop island with it's tethered goats and donkeys, and transferred to smaller row boat with engine which took us around the cliff side and then right into it! We all had to hunker down in the boat to pass through without losing our heads! Inside the cave the sunlight shines through between 11am and 1pm when the sea is still, lighting up the sandy shallow bottom and casting a dazzling blue light on its walls - simply breathtaking. Feel like I'm inside a kaleidoscope! Two young Croatian boys on the boat just behind us were leaning over the sides, peering down at the silver fish illuminated below with sheer delight - quite a photo!
At 12.30 we boarded the boat to return us to Vis - another hours trip but well worth the 10 minute visit to the Blue cave. This time we took the longer route back (18 km) around the island through local villages passing healthy vineyards en route. We enjoyed lunch back at our boat in Kut on the quayside before heeding back to Pakleni Islands to anchor at the gem of a bay at Vinogradisce - the sandy beach which slides into a clear turquoise sea at the opposite side of Parmazana where I had my swim the day before. NB. Each day is so full and so varied that all sense of time seems to have vanished in this place.
At 16.45 we drop the hook in 5 meters of water after a 2 hour motor crossing (on autohelm) of the Viski Kanal, ready for an evening in Hvar town. Yay!
17.00 I called the water taxi to come to our boat and pick us up (met a guy in Komiza who gave me his number!) so speedy change of clothes, anchor light on for later, lock up the boat and off we go!
Our crew were all keen to walk up to Grad Hvar castle in the daylight and experience the views - so we climbed the cobbled streets, past enticing jewelry boutiques up and up to the top of the hill. And now for a quick history lesson - The fortress dates from 16th century and represents a onetime main fortification giving centuries of protection to the town and its port. Although it gained its completed form in 16th C. the golden age of Hvar's architecture, the Fortica is in fact much older. It's foundations lie on a fortification dating from first half of 1st Millenium BC, which protected the Illyrian settlement. Later it was the site of a Byzantine citadel built during the reign of Emperor Justinia in 6th C. AD.
We sat at the top sipping a gin and tonic in the setting sunshine, looking past the impressive bastions and tower walls across the Pakleni Kanal to the islands there. We imagined our boat, Foolish Pleasure at anchor over there! Large power boats travelled across to dock at Hvar town wall to be part of the "in crowd" - this is Saturday night in Hvar and every bar is throwing an end of summer party!
After drinks we explored the dungeon, the chapel of St John the Baptist and numerous corridors. Interesting to note that when Hvar town lost it's strategic importance in the second Half of 19th Century the fortification was abandoned and left "for the fairies to dance in at night" - such a magical image.
We made our way back down the winding path - the occasional lizard running in front - into town and landed at yet another lovely restaurant with a terraced garden where we wined and dined under a green canopy replete with trailing geraniums and plants. The sound of bells, the buzz of holiday makers and laughter filled the air, and above us the sun was beginning to set.
They say Hvar is one of the 10 most beautiful islands in the world and I can see why. There is a feeling of innocence here still, of utter charm and openness - no jaded feeling as you stroll the streets, buy an ice cream, or talk to the shop keepers. Sure they welcome your money, but the Croatians are not interested in dollar signs as they appreciate their own wealth of land, and wine and history. There is a certain disregard for us and our home in the new world, so alien to these parts. Their history roots them and binds them together come what may. Someone back in Canada asked me if it was safe to travel here to Croatia - to be honest I have never felt so safe. This place has lived through so much turmoil that it is in their blood, they deal with it and carry on as before. One restauranteur I spoke to was adamant that they did not want to be in Europe nor envy our so called wealth. He felt rich enough. Naiive maybe but refreshing nonetheless and I could quite understand his sentiment.
10.30pm water taxi (driver's name was Valentino- Croatian equivalent of Brad Pitt!) - and have a night cap on deck under the milky way and a blanket of stars. Au revoir beautiful Hvar - til next time!
(These photos are amazing so watch out for them to follow soon!)
At 12.30 we boarded the boat to return us to Vis - another hours trip but well worth the 10 minute visit to the Blue cave. This time we took the longer route back (18 km) around the island through local villages passing healthy vineyards en route. We enjoyed lunch back at our boat in Kut on the quayside before heeding back to Pakleni Islands to anchor at the gem of a bay at Vinogradisce - the sandy beach which slides into a clear turquoise sea at the opposite side of Parmazana where I had my swim the day before. NB. Each day is so full and so varied that all sense of time seems to have vanished in this place.
At 16.45 we drop the hook in 5 meters of water after a 2 hour motor crossing (on autohelm) of the Viski Kanal, ready for an evening in Hvar town. Yay!
17.00 I called the water taxi to come to our boat and pick us up (met a guy in Komiza who gave me his number!) so speedy change of clothes, anchor light on for later, lock up the boat and off we go!
Our crew were all keen to walk up to Grad Hvar castle in the daylight and experience the views - so we climbed the cobbled streets, past enticing jewelry boutiques up and up to the top of the hill. And now for a quick history lesson - The fortress dates from 16th century and represents a onetime main fortification giving centuries of protection to the town and its port. Although it gained its completed form in 16th C. the golden age of Hvar's architecture, the Fortica is in fact much older. It's foundations lie on a fortification dating from first half of 1st Millenium BC, which protected the Illyrian settlement. Later it was the site of a Byzantine citadel built during the reign of Emperor Justinia in 6th C. AD.
We sat at the top sipping a gin and tonic in the setting sunshine, looking past the impressive bastions and tower walls across the Pakleni Kanal to the islands there. We imagined our boat, Foolish Pleasure at anchor over there! Large power boats travelled across to dock at Hvar town wall to be part of the "in crowd" - this is Saturday night in Hvar and every bar is throwing an end of summer party!
After drinks we explored the dungeon, the chapel of St John the Baptist and numerous corridors. Interesting to note that when Hvar town lost it's strategic importance in the second Half of 19th Century the fortification was abandoned and left "for the fairies to dance in at night" - such a magical image.
We made our way back down the winding path - the occasional lizard running in front - into town and landed at yet another lovely restaurant with a terraced garden where we wined and dined under a green canopy replete with trailing geraniums and plants. The sound of bells, the buzz of holiday makers and laughter filled the air, and above us the sun was beginning to set.
They say Hvar is one of the 10 most beautiful islands in the world and I can see why. There is a feeling of innocence here still, of utter charm and openness - no jaded feeling as you stroll the streets, buy an ice cream, or talk to the shop keepers. Sure they welcome your money, but the Croatians are not interested in dollar signs as they appreciate their own wealth of land, and wine and history. There is a certain disregard for us and our home in the new world, so alien to these parts. Their history roots them and binds them together come what may. Someone back in Canada asked me if it was safe to travel here to Croatia - to be honest I have never felt so safe. This place has lived through so much turmoil that it is in their blood, they deal with it and carry on as before. One restauranteur I spoke to was adamant that they did not want to be in Europe nor envy our so called wealth. He felt rich enough. Naiive maybe but refreshing nonetheless and I could quite understand his sentiment.
10.30pm water taxi (driver's name was Valentino- Croatian equivalent of Brad Pitt!) - and have a night cap on deck under the milky way and a blanket of stars. Au revoir beautiful Hvar - til next time!
(These photos are amazing so watch out for them to follow soon!)
23rd Sept - Vis
Wind SW 5knots this morning and weather returned to highs like the week before we arrived. Hot and sunny with le grand bleu! After hot shower, strolled over island through sweet smelling pine woods to the orleander and bourgonvillea-laden shores of a gorgeous beach - sandy bay festooned with yachts and rimmed with restaurants - loungers and parasols all lined up and not a soul around. Soooo nice to walk on sand and wade out into warm, shallow turqouise water with temps of 26degrees - unlike Canada! Cast off 11.30 from Parmizana and powered slowly through narrow channel with 2.9 max depth! 3 hour stretch SW to Vis and docked on town wall in Kut opposite town of Vis and away from ferry coming in from Split and Italy (Pescara, Ancona)! Charming old town nestled in horseshoe bay surrounded by ramparts and castle ruins with church and cemetery garden enclosed by poplar trees on approach to Vis harbor. Our boat docked beneath ancient clock tower whose bell sounded every 15 minutes. Sat leisurely on board for lunch. Crew then went walkabout so I relished a couple of quiet hours doing laundry and hanging over life lines, brewing a cup of tea and writing my journal! Palms offer the only shade in this quiet place. Terracotta roof tiles sit like golden sun hats above square white houses, slotted against their neighbors like a giant jigsaw puzzle.
Dinner in walled garden amongst pineapple palms and statues in a quiet oasis above the town.
Heaven.
Dinner in walled garden amongst pineapple palms and statues in a quiet oasis above the town.
Heaven.
22nd Sept - Hvar
Cast off Stari Grad dock at 11.30am - welcome late start (and finally a decent nights sleep) after coffee with skippers at corner cafe and Croatian equivalent of pain au chocolat! Declared today a Ladies Sailing day for Carolina and Michelle as the guys have been helming and trimming up to now. 12.30 - 15.00 sailed around tacking, points of sail, switching up at sheets and helm - just like with my students back home! Then engine on to motor to anchorage at Hvar - had to reset anchor 3 times as dragged in shallow water - but good practice for the crew! (Tip - always reverse slowly!) Managed to eat lunch on deck before getting too close to the rocks. Wasp stung me on the leg as I hurried to weigh anchor and move out! 16.30 docked at ACI Marina at Parmizana in Pakleni Islands just off shore from town of Hvar. First boat in! Beautiful location indeed. 7pm water taxi over to Hvar, basking in the spectacular sunset as we went, the warm breeze in our hair. wow!!! Hvar is THE place to be seen here. Invited crew for drinks at the harbor side lounge bar - Carpe Deum - low lying sofas and huge satin pillows looking out onto the bay with Jack Johnson crooning in background, and the beautiful people all around, slim, tanned and young! ah well!! Enjoyed delicious dinner in courtyard restaurant in one of the many narrow cobbled streets bursting with life, noise and fun. Giaxa restaurant - beef medallions in truffle sauce and good local wine - what a treat. Was half expecting a famous face or two to stroll by. Lots of Brits, Australians and French around. I'm in love with Hvar!
(some great photos to follow - catching up on blog first to keep you all up to date!)
(some great photos to follow - catching up on blog first to keep you all up to date!)
Monday 26 September 2011
21st Sept - Stari Grad
Cast off 09.00am downwind using bow springer lines. Bora still blowing but can't stay in Trogir any longer! Wind NE 12-20, gusting 25-30 outside! Steered course 198degrees to Soltanski channel between Drvenik Veli and Solta islands, then course 112degrees along west coast of Solta, past Maslinica at northern tip down to Milna at northern tip of Brac Island. Seas lumpy with strong gusts. Glad I took my Stergeron pills! Reached 9.8 knots then decided to reef main and jib for an hour before shaking out as we approached Hvar Island. Under power at Starogradski channel with strong currents and shallow water - we made it through. Passed naturalist sailor at helm of his boat, his pink buttocks in full view, and he turned away as we approached! Bob's boat almost collided with another boat under power as it careered into his bow! 15.00 motored into Tiha Bay for swim n' snorkel at anchor for an hour or so. The lined up to stern tie at town wall in Stari Grad with one lazy line at bow. Charming little town with fresh fruit and vegetable market and harbour full of small, brightly-painted fishing boats. Strolled around town with Marla before enjoying dinner together (just us female skippers!)in a quiet side street restaurant, feeding stray cats our leftovers and listening to the church bells peel.
(Photos to follow later)
(Photos to follow later)
Tuesday 20 September 2011
Toujours Trogir! (20 Sept.)
Held over in Trogir Monday 19th and now Tuesday 20th due to very strong winds - Jugo blew in yesterday from SE bringing strong winds 28kn plus in afternoon and storm front with thunder and lightning by late evening. Restaurants were evacuated around 9.15pm and locals told us to hurry home! Never saw people move so fast and in less than 10 minutes the whole town was shuttered up and deserted. Over at ACI Marina there were 3ft seas crashing over our dock and boats (including mine) heeling into each other. Sterns dangerously close to the dock so engines on, slacked off dock lines and reset lazy lines at the bow. Luckily had already snugged up the boat with secured main halyard, dinghy alongside, tight jib sheets on winches, and best of all closed hatches - so no wet bunks! Actually missed a lot of the action as my crew and I holed up in a bar in the old town out of the sudden downpour - so everyone safe! Lots of action when we got back. Sorry - no photos.
Awoke this morning (Tuesday) to more rumbles of thunder and lightning flashes at around 05.00am and weather forecast winds turning to NE/NW with gusts of between 30-50 knots bringing sea swells. Watched Bora winds (normally follow Jugo) move in over the mountains like a line of white smoke. Another vessel (not in our fleet) attempted to move out of its slip, and immediately got blown down, ending up side on with shrouds tangled in another boats anchor! Catamaran at end of our dock showed substantial dents in side of its hull from last nights bashing. Hoping to head off to Milna on Brac Island today - about 20 miles - but locals advising against and Harbourmaster in Milna said "we,d prefer if you didn,t". 7 boats attempting to dock there would be a headache for sure! So, more directional knot practice, manicures, naps, shopping, laundry and me back at the internet cafe! May have to revise our schedule now and cut out a stop, but weather set to settle from tomorrow onwards with the sun returning and more settled winds from North although slightly colder temps. Certainly getting a good long look at Trogir!
Awoke this morning (Tuesday) to more rumbles of thunder and lightning flashes at around 05.00am and weather forecast winds turning to NE/NW with gusts of between 30-50 knots bringing sea swells. Watched Bora winds (normally follow Jugo) move in over the mountains like a line of white smoke. Another vessel (not in our fleet) attempted to move out of its slip, and immediately got blown down, ending up side on with shrouds tangled in another boats anchor! Catamaran at end of our dock showed substantial dents in side of its hull from last nights bashing. Hoping to head off to Milna on Brac Island today - about 20 miles - but locals advising against and Harbourmaster in Milna said "we,d prefer if you didn,t". 7 boats attempting to dock there would be a headache for sure! So, more directional knot practice, manicures, naps, shopping, laundry and me back at the internet cafe! May have to revise our schedule now and cut out a stop, but weather set to settle from tomorrow onwards with the sun returning and more settled winds from North although slightly colder temps. Certainly getting a good long look at Trogir!
Monday 19 September 2011
Trogir - 18th & 19th Sept.
Dinner on first night at charming fish restaurant in old town, sitting under grape vines listening to the peel of Sunday church bells and watching planes flying overhead! Toured tiny cobbled streets in this quieter, prettier place than its newer more crowded neighbour of Split. Retired to boat for nightcaps which quickly grew into a party!
Weather deteriorating overnight and woke Monday 19th to strong wind warnings in the area - Juog winds blowing in from SE/SW bringing winds and rain storms of 30-45knots!! Decided to hole up in Trogir for an extra day so Im off to climb the steps of the castle (see sunset photo), browse the open air market and sit and drink coffee at the many quaint little cafes and jusk soak up the atmosphere!
See you at the next internet stop - probably from island of Hvar!
Did I tell you how hot it is here - need two showers per day and tons of deodorant!
Weather deteriorating overnight and woke Monday 19th to strong wind warnings in the area - Juog winds blowing in from SE/SW bringing winds and rain storms of 30-45knots!! Decided to hole up in Trogir for an extra day so Im off to climb the steps of the castle (see sunset photo), browse the open air market and sit and drink coffee at the many quaint little cafes and jusk soak up the atmosphere!
See you at the next internet stop - probably from island of Hvar!
Did I tell you how hot it is here - need two showers per day and tons of deodorant!
Sail from Kremik to Trogir - Sunday 18th Sept.
Cast off at 10.55am after skippers meeting at 9am. Winds SE 10-15 due to build in afternoon to 20knots. Put first reef in when raised main sail. Sailed upwind, close-hauled/close reached, tacking all the way south past Primosten and shoal of islands close to shore. Switched up helm with crew (Nik and Sean) and ladies prepared lunch underway. Moved jib cars back to position 12 (of 14) for max sail trim. Navigated 80m channel in early afternoon gusts between shore and group of islands as we neared north end of Solta Island heading for Trogir. Decided to douse jib quickly, but not easily upwind (should be on broad reach for this manoeuvre!) and put engine on. Fairlz shallow waters at 50-60m watching GPS/charts for rocks! Saw another boat under power up ahead almost collide with our lead boat (Bob Davis) who said they passed about within feet of his bow. Then came up on Dutch boat with naked helmsman - saw his rear end from afar with rosy cheeks! Amusing to watch him bear (bare?!) away as we approached. Reached 7.8kn across open stretch of water heading for Trogir harbour, heeling about 20 degrees with lots of weather helm in gusts. 15.30 approached ACI Marina, lowered sails and prepared vessel for docking and stern tie manoeuvre with lazy lines. Reversed into slip with stern to wind and turned 45degrees into dock to catch port side lazy line for bow, then stern ties to dock. Great first day sailing and crew calm and compliant! All is well aboard my vessel - Foolish Pleasure!
Krka National Park - 18th Sept 2011
10am bus from Split took us all north to Krka National Park, an area of 109 square km encompassin g the Krka River with its seven travertine cascades. The area is rich in flora and fauna because of its distinctive position and diverse habitats - over 860 plant species live in the park. Many amphibians also live here including reptiles (poisonous viper) and fish - I saw carp in the lake. I hiked a wooden trail to the glorious waterfalls and swam in the cool waters in this lush parkland. Then back on the bus bound for Kremik Marina with a stop for provisioning en route.
Friday 16 September 2011
Split
Arrived by bus in the late afternoon heat after four flights and 16 hours of travel - Vancouver, Frankfurt, Zagreb, Split - so sat down on the Riva (front) and sipped a cold beer (only $2.60). Quaint little "pension" villa up narrow street on west side of town oozing stray cats, terracotta pots and balconies and terraces dripping fresh laundry onto the cobblestones below. Toured the Diocletian Palace today with its many historical sites including the cool basement - the Peristil - under the Palace, much of which has been excavated to reveal its ancient ruins and beams from its original structure. This is a world heritage site after all. Peered into the Sv. Duje Cathedral which can be seen from most points in the city with its tall bell tower. Even crept into the Crypt. The Green Market just outside the Palace gates is a great place to buy anything from fresh food to inexpensive clothing and shoes. Narrow streets burst into large piazzas framed with cafes for people watching, and around every corner lurks another tiny corridor enticing you into this veritable maze.
Tonight most of the crew - that is about 30 people - meet up for a local Croatian feast in a hidden hilltop village somewhere not far away, and tomorrow the bus transports us all via a waterfall park (name tba) en route to provision the boats that await us at Kremik Marina.
My next missive will be after a few days sailing - most likley from Hvar town where internet access is as good as here in Split - and I can recount my first sailing adventures as skippy between Kremik, Brac Island and Hvar Island................watch this space!
Tonight most of the crew - that is about 30 people - meet up for a local Croatian feast in a hidden hilltop village somewhere not far away, and tomorrow the bus transports us all via a waterfall park (name tba) en route to provision the boats that await us at Kremik Marina.
My next missive will be after a few days sailing - most likley from Hvar town where internet access is as good as here in Split - and I can recount my first sailing adventures as skippy between Kremik, Brac Island and Hvar Island................watch this space!
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