The bells, the bells! Woke early and prepped dinghy to motor across to Vis town to meet other boats for day trip to Blue Cave on island of Bisevo, an hours boat ride from Komiza on western tip of Vis. Rented red fiat convertible and enjoyed a short 10 km drive across island from East to West up windy roads with sheer cliff sides offering spectacular vistas over the Adriatic. Boarded boat in Komiza at 10am to Bisevo, arriving on this tiny outcrop island with it's tethered goats and donkeys, and transferred to smaller row boat with engine which took us around the cliff side and then right into it! We all had to hunker down in the boat to pass through without losing our heads! Inside the cave the sunlight shines through between 11am and 1pm when the sea is still, lighting up the sandy shallow bottom and casting a dazzling blue light on its walls - simply breathtaking. Feel like I'm inside a kaleidoscope! Two young Croatian boys on the boat just behind us were leaning over the sides, peering down at the silver fish illuminated below with sheer delight - quite a photo!
At 12.30 we boarded the boat to return us to Vis - another hours trip but well worth the 10 minute visit to the Blue cave. This time we took the longer route back (18 km) around the island through local villages passing healthy vineyards en route. We enjoyed lunch back at our boat in Kut on the quayside before heeding back to Pakleni Islands to anchor at the gem of a bay at Vinogradisce - the sandy beach which slides into a clear turquoise sea at the opposite side of Parmazana where I had my swim the day before. NB. Each day is so full and so varied that all sense of time seems to have vanished in this place.
At 16.45 we drop the hook in 5 meters of water after a 2 hour motor crossing (on autohelm) of the Viski Kanal, ready for an evening in Hvar town. Yay!
17.00 I called the water taxi to come to our boat and pick us up (met a guy in Komiza who gave me his number!) so speedy change of clothes, anchor light on for later, lock up the boat and off we go!
Our crew were all keen to walk up to Grad Hvar castle in the daylight and experience the views - so we climbed the cobbled streets, past enticing jewelry boutiques up and up to the top of the hill. And now for a quick history lesson - The fortress dates from 16th century and represents a onetime main fortification giving centuries of protection to the town and its port. Although it gained its completed form in 16th C. the golden age of Hvar's architecture, the Fortica is in fact much older. It's foundations lie on a fortification dating from first half of 1st Millenium BC, which protected the Illyrian settlement. Later it was the site of a Byzantine citadel built during the reign of Emperor Justinia in 6th C. AD.
We sat at the top sipping a gin and tonic in the setting sunshine, looking past the impressive bastions and tower walls across the Pakleni Kanal to the islands there. We imagined our boat, Foolish Pleasure at anchor over there! Large power boats travelled across to dock at Hvar town wall to be part of the "in crowd" - this is Saturday night in Hvar and every bar is throwing an end of summer party!
After drinks we explored the dungeon, the chapel of St John the Baptist and numerous corridors. Interesting to note that when Hvar town lost it's strategic importance in the second Half of 19th Century the fortification was abandoned and left "for the fairies to dance in at night" - such a magical image.
We made our way back down the winding path - the occasional lizard running in front - into town and landed at yet another lovely restaurant with a terraced garden where we wined and dined under a green canopy replete with trailing geraniums and plants. The sound of bells, the buzz of holiday makers and laughter filled the air, and above us the sun was beginning to set.
They say Hvar is one of the 10 most beautiful islands in the world and I can see why. There is a feeling of innocence here still, of utter charm and openness - no jaded feeling as you stroll the streets, buy an ice cream, or talk to the shop keepers. Sure they welcome your money, but the Croatians are not interested in dollar signs as they appreciate their own wealth of land, and wine and history. There is a certain disregard for us and our home in the new world, so alien to these parts. Their history roots them and binds them together come what may. Someone back in Canada asked me if it was safe to travel here to Croatia - to be honest I have never felt so safe. This place has lived through so much turmoil that it is in their blood, they deal with it and carry on as before. One restauranteur I spoke to was adamant that they did not want to be in Europe nor envy our so called wealth. He felt rich enough. Naiive maybe but refreshing nonetheless and I could quite understand his sentiment.
10.30pm water taxi (driver's name was Valentino- Croatian equivalent of Brad Pitt!) - and have a night cap on deck under the milky way and a blanket of stars. Au revoir beautiful Hvar - til next time!
(These photos are amazing so watch out for them to follow soon!)
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